I hate winter. Hate, hate, hate, hate, hate. It would take more hands than I have to count the number of reasons why I left Michigan nearly 15 years ago but winter would be counted a couple times. Istanbul winters are never predictable. Last February we got buried under what was really not all that much snow but enough to shut down the city for several days. This February was far more to my taste-warm enough to barely warrant wearing a sweater. A few weeks ago it was so nice that E and breakfasted outside in only our long-sleeve shirts. For this occasion we chose Cihangir's Cuma, a lovely little cafe tucked away on Çukurcuma, the street famous for its antique shops.
To begin with, Cuma makes amazing bread. Amazing. And, local secret, if you pop in earlier in the day and ask to buy a loaf or two they'll make extra to sell to you. I imagine it's fantastic on the toasts and sandwiches. I'll need to go back sometime soon for lunch and find out! My neighbors have also vouched for the yumminess of the cakes and pastries that can be found inside the cafe.
For such a small place the breakfast menu is pretty extensive including the ubiquitous full breakfast and a compliment of eggs. We ordered the full breakfast and while the olives all went to E (I like them about as much as I like winter) we both dug enthusiastically into the tomato paste, rose hip preserves, something that tasted like Fruit Roll-Up spread, a variety of cheeses, and of course, the bal kaymak.
Cuma also does çıldır, the yogurt-smothered poached eggs I fell in love with at Kahve 6 which we had to order. Kahve 6's were a bit more garlicy I think but Cuma's were still gorgeous and E and I had a mini battle over who got to send the dish to the Clean Plate Club.
A warm February day and a gorgeous Turkish breakfast are both excellent reminders as to why I put up with this city!
Cuma
Firuzağa Mahallesi
Çukurucuma Caddesi, No 53/A
Beyoğlu, İstanbul
E trying to hide from the camera |
To begin with, Cuma makes amazing bread. Amazing. And, local secret, if you pop in earlier in the day and ask to buy a loaf or two they'll make extra to sell to you. I imagine it's fantastic on the toasts and sandwiches. I'll need to go back sometime soon for lunch and find out! My neighbors have also vouched for the yumminess of the cakes and pastries that can be found inside the cafe.
For such a small place the breakfast menu is pretty extensive including the ubiquitous full breakfast and a compliment of eggs. We ordered the full breakfast and while the olives all went to E (I like them about as much as I like winter) we both dug enthusiastically into the tomato paste, rose hip preserves, something that tasted like Fruit Roll-Up spread, a variety of cheeses, and of course, the bal kaymak.
Cuma also does çıldır, the yogurt-smothered poached eggs I fell in love with at Kahve 6 which we had to order. Kahve 6's were a bit more garlicy I think but Cuma's were still gorgeous and E and I had a mini battle over who got to send the dish to the Clean Plate Club.
A warm February day and a gorgeous Turkish breakfast are both excellent reminders as to why I put up with this city!
Cuma
Firuzağa Mahallesi
Çukurucuma Caddesi, No 53/A
Beyoğlu, İstanbul
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