17 August 2016

Turkish Wine of the Week - A Visit to Suvla!

I recently had the opportunity to spend time on Bozcaada and was able to visit Suvla in Ecebat while I was there so I thought I'd roll a post about that into a couple reviews.

First of all, I wish I'd realized years ago how easy it is to get to Suvla. The main reason I don't visit Turkish wineries is because I don't drive and it's not like they're exactly conveniently located. Suvla, in Eceabat, is a short ferry ride away from Canakkale which in turn is serviced by a daily flight out of Sabiha Gokcen airport in Istanbul. Had I but known!




Walking into Suvla was a little, as my friend put it, like arriving at the mother ship. The Suvla store in Ecebat is gorgeous. I approached the wine filled walls like an eager kid in a candy shop wishing I could take a little of everything with me. Thanks to Nusret in the Cihangir Suvla shop we were armed with the name of someone to help us during out visit. Unfortunately after arriving we learned that was her day off! However as proof of how fantastic Suvla is, someone called her and Ecem very kindly came in to provide us with some VIP treatment!



First we had a tour of the factory with one of Suvla's new wine makers, Hıkmet. He toured us through the factory showing us the grape presses and fermentation tanks (I particularly liked the Dalek-shaped tank in the back) answering my pesty questions all the while. Then he took us into the barrel storage room, a blessedly cool contrast to Eceabat's 38C heat! Suvla uses oak from France, America, and Hungary I believe he said and the barrels are used for five or so wines before being retired.



Of course we couldn't be at the home of Suvla and not do some wine tasting! Unfortunately Turkish laws have made it difficult, if not downright impossible, for wineries and shops to provide tastings free of charge, however the Suvla restaurant offers a long list of flights for tasting at reasonable prices as well tastings by the glass. T and I got two different red flights, one from Suvla's mid priced range of wines and one from the higher end. While I was not surprised that we both loved the Petit Verdot-Karasakız blend; I was shocked, and not a small amount horrified, that I actually kind of liked the (2014) Merlot!

After our tasting and tour of the şaraphane, we refreshed ourselves with a coffee break before heading out for a tour of the vineyards with Suvla's Australian viticulturist, Mark.


red globe table grapes

I suppose it's possible that I could have been more excited by this, but not a whole lot. The first thing I learned which was very different for me was that wineries in Turkey don't own large tracts of land where all the grapes are planted. They have bits of land here and there which enable them to plant different grapes in different types of soils and conditions. As a result, driving between the various Suvla plots we also passed a few individually owned farm plots as well as some of Doluca's vineyards.

Sad stressed grapes

Suvla plants more than just wine grapes in its vineyards. They also have large sections dedicated to different table grapes that are used in workers' lunches and farm plots where they grow ingredients for the restaurant and the Kilye line of oils, jams, preserves, etc they produce and sell. Mark stopped often so we could roll out of his Range Rover to get an up close view of the various grapes and so I could pester him with questions about canopies, soil types, drainage, grafting, root stock, and harvesting. We also used the stops as opportunities to try the various grapes. A regular grape will never taste as amazing as will a sun-warmed grape plucked from the bunch on the vine.


A young vine grafted onto American rootstock

Looking over Suvla's vineyards

After a few hours in the vineyards Mark asked if we'd ever been to Gallipoli and seen the war memorials there. T has been but I'd never been to this part of Turkey at all so he very kindly offered to drive us around on a tour of the area.

Ari Burnu Cemetery

While most of the graves in the Ari Burnu cemetery face the sea, three graves belonging to British Indian Muslim soldiers have their headstones pointing towards Mecca.

Atatürk's 'Johnnies and Mehmets' speech memorial at Anzac Cove

Find Atatürk's iconic speech here.

Kemekli (bone) beach

As an American the battles at Gallipoli and along the coast now known as Kemekli Beach hold less significance. In fact I dare say that we mostly know it as the unpronounceable Mel Gibson movie. However for the allied armies, particularly Australia and New Zealand, it was an unwinnable blood bath into which Winston Churchill pushed soldiers even while knowing he couldn't win. Significantly for Turkey, it's also where a young officer names Mustafa Kemal would distinguish himself and what would begin his path to becoming the father of modern Turkey.


We cannot end this on a melancholy note and of course there must be more wine! So let's talk about two of Suvla's wines.

We'll begin with one that I bought a while ago at the shop in Cihangir. I keep trying the pink wines even though I really just can't get behind them. In the glass Suvla's 2015 Merlot-Karasakız Rose is the soft peachy-pink of a sunset. To me the nose was basically pink oak. I did however also get some summer berry and floral scents. On the palate it's dry with crisp acidity and a decent finish. Not a long one, but it stays with you. There are some nice raspberry and strawberry flavors which normally I love in a wine but the Merlotness of it overwhelmed me.

For 45TL this is not a bad investment and I really think the only reason I didn't like it is because I just really don't like the pink wines. However if you don't share my pink prejudice this would be perfect on a hot summer day!


While actually at Suvla I treated myself to two of the high-end wines that I normally wouldn't let myself buy in the shop. In fact I've managed to forget the cost of them both but suffice to say they're priced over 100TL/bottle. Really rather somewhat over actually. I am a sucker for Turkish Cabernet Sauvignon though and I really wanted to try Suvla's award-winning 2012 Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon. Unless you have a disposable income far greater than my own, this is not an everyday wine but a special occasion wine. My special occasion happened to be last Tuesday when I made a particularly good truffled chicken and parmesan panino...

After 12 months in oak this gorgeous deep red Cabernet has a nose redolent with prunes, blackberry, cherry, chocolate, and tobacco. In the mouth the tannins are velvety and luscious and the wine has a long finish with more of those dark fruits, some coffee, and smokey flavors. Wow. If you're looking to treat yourself to a premium Turkish wine you can stop here. I might not have liked the rose but this one knocked my socks off. So much so that I'm actually letting that previous sentence end with a preposition.

Two years after I began my love affair with Suvla wines I finally visited the winery and it could not have been a more fantastic experience! Thank you to Suvla, expecially Nusret, Ecem, Hıkmet, and Mike for a fantastic day!

15 August 2016

Turkish Breakfast Review - Limonlu Bahçe

It's been a while since I posted about breakfast in Istanbul. It takes a surprising amount of dedication to eat breakfast out once a week and since I'm really lazy and am usually not even rolling out of bed, let along looking presentable, until about lunch time it's a dedication I don't really have.



However recently I met up with a friend and former neighbor E at Limonlu Bahçe which is a local favorite and conveniently located just up the hill from my old apartment. The cafe gets its name from the lovely, partially enclosed garden filled with lemon trees. While the food can be a little hit or miss it's a lovely place to sit for a drink, enjoy the atmosphere, the omnipresent cats, and the garden's two turtles. Who also enjoy the garden-especially during mating season.


That's not what you want to eat breakfast next to!



Limonlu Bahçe has a pretty good selection of breakfast foods and you also have the choice between big or small plate breakfasts. E and I both went with the small plate option of yurmutalı ekmek (Turkish take on French Toast) with bal kaymak (honey and cream). It was definitely a better version of yurmutalı ekmek than what I previously had at Mavra Cafe. I could definitely have used a more generous portion of kaymak though.



Decent food, friendly service, and a great atmosphere - Limonlu Bahçe is worth a visit for any meal of the day!

Limonlu Bahçe
Yeni Çarşı Caddesi
Istanbul

12 August 2016

Champagne Air and a Hipster Wine Festival

After two years of trying I was finally able to visit my good friend D in Bad Homburg, Germany. Bad Homburg, a suburb of Frankfurt, is one of the wealthiest districts in Germany which is pretty clear in the town's slogan: Champagnerluft und Tradition (Champagne Air and Tradition).

Bad Homburg Schloss


I don't know about the champagne but the air really was lovely! When I'm in Istanbul I don't usually realize how poor the air quality is but nothing drove that home until the morning after I arrived and D took me on a tour of Bad Homburg and its many (many) parks. There are very few things I miss about country life but the smell of clean air, trees, and grass is one of them. Possibly the only thing actually. The parks in Bad Homburg are gorgeous.


Kaiser Wilhelm II spa

Bad Homburg became a popular spa town in the 19th century and, situated in one of the parks, is the Kaiser Wilheml II spa. The spa takes advantage of the natural mineral water deposits and throughout the park you can find different drinking fountains with plaques to tell you the mineral composition of the water and which ailments its good for. I sampled several of the waters and have to say I think I'd rather have the ailments. The spa was lovely though. It consists of various rooms that, like the water, have different elements and minerals to benefit one's health. My favorite was the hay steam room in which you sit in a hay-lined alcove, are covered with a paper sheet so only your head sticks out the top, and hot steam pours through the hay. I don't remember what this was good for but I giggled the entire 15 minutes because it reminded me of sweating during hay season. I think my dad should build one of these in Michigan and charge all the city people who board their horses in his neighborhood ridiculous amounts of money for hay steams.

Bad Homburg casino


Bad Homburg is also home to a casino, built apparently by the brother team responsible for the Monte Carlo casino. I've never been to Monte Carlo but I have to say this is the most sedate and German-looking casino I've ever seen. We went one evening, not to gamble but to dance in the small club on the top floor. It was better people watching than it was dancing owing to a really uneven performance by the DJ...but it was still great fun.



One afternoon D and her family took me to nearby Mainz where we spent an overcast morning wandering around the cobbled streets. The historic center of Mainz is everything you want in a German town: cobbled streets, half-timbered buildings, Roman ruins, and beautiful, old churches.



For the purposes of my visit the most important feature was the river that runs through Mainz, the Rhein. Mainz is situated in the Rheingau-one of Germany's most important wine regions. I don't know much about German wine outside of Riesling and Gewürtztramiener so I did some research before going. The most cultivated grapes in the Rheingau are: Riesling, Spätburgunder, Dornfelder, Grauer Burgunder, Kerner, Dunkelfelder, Chardonnay, Ehrenfelser, Müller-Thurgau, and Weiẞer Burgunder. I had the opportunity to try several of these and a few others at the Wine is in the Air festival.



Without a doubt this was the most hipster wine festival I'd ever been to but despite that it was great fun and I really enjoyed being able to try a whole mess of German wines I'd not only never tried but never heard of before; like the bottle of Zwitschern that I bought to take back to Turkey.

In a trip that involved nature and clean air, spas and hay steams, dancing til 3 AM, the most amazing truffle pasta ever, karaoke until 3 AM and then skipping through Bad Homburg barefoot, practicing my German with a seven year old, and a hipster wine festival it's difficult to choose a highlight. For me of course it was being able to hang out and do all these things with a good friend I hadn't seen in six years but even if you don't have such an amazing friend and host waiting for you, Bad Homburg is definitely worth a visit!

10 August 2016

Turkish Wine of the Week - Anfora 2014 Kalecik Karası-Shiraz Blush

While I still approach pink wines warily I am more open to at least trying then than I used to be. That does not mean that I go out of my way to buy them. It's not even a matter of going out of my way really, a pink wine could be sitting right in front of my and the likelihood of me buying it is still pretty slim.

However I have recently started holding Turkish wine tastings; informal parties at my place for my friends where the only rules are that you must bring a wine that is Turkish and is not DLC. If you don't live here and you don't know what DLC is count yourself lucky. As one of the goals of the tasting is to try a wide spectrum of Turkish wines at least one pink wine should make the roster.  At the inaugural meeting of Kitap Klübü Ezikler İçindir!* the pink wine was the Anfora 2014 Kalecik Karası-Shiraz Blush from Pamukkale.


Pale peachy pink in the glass the nose is very fruit forward with a lot of strawberries. On the palate it was off-dry with a subtle acidity and minerality. While I want to be diplomatic and say that while I don't see this particular blush bringing me any closer to being a fan of pink wines it wasn't bad...I just can't say that. I don't like pink wine-full stop. I have tried and as there are two more bottles in my fridge I will keep trying...but really just avoid this one.

I did not buy this so I cannot confidently say how much it was but my experience with Pamukkale wines said it was probably around 25TL and widely available at many of Turkey's grocery stores if you want a bottle of your very own despite my advice that don't.

*Book Club is for Suckers-you know if you've been in a book club the chances that you've actually read the book are slim because the group will talk about the book for maybe 5 minutes before delving into wine and gossip...we're skipping the books and going straight to the wine! We have T-Shirts.

05 August 2016

Gozoten Guest Wine - Hauteville 2014 Grand Vinde

I've been terribly neglectful about both having and writing about this wine. This was a gift from a colleague last summer and we just opened it a few weeks ago. Gozo is one of the islands that make up Malta and is apparently known for being the most fertile climate in Malta and some of the best Maltese vineyards are located on this island. My colleagues lived in Malta for a while and told me that what she learned there is that, when speaking about wine, that you can't just say 'Maltese' wine, you have to identify with the specific island. So this Hauteville Grande Vinde is a Gozoten wine.

The Hauteville Grande Vinde is a 2014 Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon blend. It was a really pretty brilliant, ruby red in the glass; not at all opaque. I found the nose very interesting as usually the fist, and sometimes only thing I can detect is fruit but with this wine I hard a hard time catching any fruit scents under some really overwhelming green peppercorn, leather, and spice.
 

On the palate the Hauteville Grand Vinde was very tart. While I wasn't getting a lot of fruit in the nose here I got a lot of sour cherry with low tannins, and highish acid. For a Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon blend there wasn't a great deal of substance to the mouth feel and while the flavor was nice it was rather too tart for my liking. I think with the right food to balance the dominant sour cherry flavor this would be quite nice.

For my first foray into Maltese wines this wasn't too bad; and definitely leaves me wanting to try more!